Day 2 in Vaxholm
On your second day in Vaxholm, you can explore how Stockholm was defended from the sea route for more than 450 years, enjoy the nature reserve "Bogesundslandet", or do activities on the island Eriksö close to Resarö and Vaxholm.
There are two important waterways towards Stockholm – "Kodjupet" and "Oxdjupet" (Cowdepth and Bullockdepth) – which run between the islands of Vaxholm, Rindö, and Värmdö. From the mid-1600s until the end of the 1900s, fortifications were built here as a "defence lock" for Stockholm. They are all interesting to visit and walk around.
The Bogesundslandet (the land of Bogesund) became a nature reserve 2015. It makes up half of Vaxholm municipality's land area. The size and proximity to Stockholm make the area unique. Every season has something to offer: wonderful hiking and bicycling trails, golfing, picking berries and different mushrooms, bathing, cross country skiing, and listening to the silence in the forests. The area is popular, but you’ll feel that you are almost alone here. Also, there is a castle marked as cultural important to preserve.
Between Vaxholm and Resarö, you've Eriksö where you can exercise in different ways: rent kayaks, climp through the high altitude runway (during spring to autumn), and a wonderful morning beach. You can also rent kayaks in Vaxholm and during the high-season bicycles. You'll have plenty things to do during all seasons around the Vaxholm area.
Vaxholms kastell (the Vaxholm's Citadel)
Sweden's first king Gustav Vasa realized the waterway between Vaxholm and Rindö had to close for lager enemy ships. In 1560, the first manned fortification was completed. It prevented the Danes in 1612 and the Russians in 1719 from getting into Stockholm.
In 1863, the fortress was replaced with an impressive citadel building. It was one of the most labor-intensive constructions carried out in the Stockholm area after the Royal Palace. In total, about 30,000 chastened granite blocks were used to build the more than two-meter-thick outer walls. It had 150 cannons on several floors.
However, the defence technology had been developed during the 30 years of construction. A test firing was made in 1872, the new projectiles went straigh through the walls. Thus, the Citadel was only used as a staff building, training facility, and prison until the 1940s.
Today, there is a museum, a restaurant, and several other activities in the Citadel. During the high-season you buy a ticket for the boat over to the little island at the harbour.
Fredriksborgs fästning (the Fortress of Fredrik)
When the construction of the fortress in Vaxholm started in 1549, Gustav Vasa ordered to fill up Oxdjupet (almost 40 meters deep) between Rindö and Värmdö. The thought was to redirect all larger ships through Kodjupet.
For 100 years, the Baltic Sea was practically a Swedish inland sea. After Sweden lost this position in early 1700s and the Russians ravaged the east coast from 1719 to 1721, Stockholm needed a stronger defence at Oxdjupet.
Fredriksborgs fästning (named after King Fredrik I) was built in 1724–1735 and was the most modern fortress of its time with towers, waterworks, and ancillary buildings. It gradually fell into disrepair and was put out of operation towards the mid-1800s. Stones were used for the new military constructions in Vaxholm. By this time, 300 years of filling up Oxdjupet was completed (through sinking ships). People could walk between Värmdö and Rindö.
Today, Fredriksborg's Hotel is located in the old officers' quarters. It offers lunches and dinners as well as tours around the defence buildings. At certain times of the year, the tower is closed out of consideration for bats in hibernation (the gun tower is open all year round).
Oscar Fredriksborgs Fort (the Fortress of O-F)
The waterway Kodjupet is narrow, crooked, and 3.3 meters deep. Oxdjupet was necessary to use when the merchant ships increased in size and numbers in the second part of 1900s. Also, the Vaxholm’s Citadel was outdated. Thus, Oskar-Fredriksborgs on Rindö was built 1867–1877. Also, the Oxdjupet was cleared from stones and shipwrecks.
The fortress was modern for its time and placed on a partially natural slope to make it as invisible as possible. It has an upper and a lower part connected by a tunnel "Täckta gången” (Covered Passage) blasted into the rock. It was the first blastning in Sweden where nitro-glycerine was used. Also, other innovations such as concrete and armour were used to protect the façade.
In 1925, the defence of Stockholm moved further out into the archipelago so the Vaxholm defence line closed. Until the 1980s, the fortress was used, among others, as a mine workshop. In 2005, all defence activities on Rindö ended.
Today, Oskar Fredriksborg and Fredriksborg's fortresses, as well as the Vaxholms’s Citadel, are state monuments. Sometimes the Vaxholm's Citadel Museum offers guided tours in Oskar Fredriksborg.
Bogesundslandet (the land of Bogesund)
The nature reserve “Bogesundslandet” is a part of the EU's Natura 2000 network for valuable natural areas. Old-growth forest, oak, linden and pine are interspersed with agricultural fields and pastures. There are ancient remains from the Bronze and Iron Age.
Follow the "right of public access" when you visit nature areas in Sweden. All year round in the reserve, you can hike on trails from 2 km and longer, each leading through a varied and rich natural and cultural landscape. Also, you can bicycle on some trails and all roads are nice for bicycling. From spring to the autumn, you can camp or take a tour on the 18-hole golf course. Season activities:
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spring – you can see any of the 115–120 bird species that nest in the area
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summer – it is lovely to swim or walking in the forest and pick blueberries
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autumn – the coniferous forests are particularly suitable for different mushroom picking (we help you with what to pick) as well as picking lingonberries.
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winter – cross-country skiing (on the golf course) and long-distance skating are suitable activities.
Bogesunds slott (the Castle of Bogesund)
Close to Vaxholm, just outside the natural reserve, the Castle of Bogesund piles up in a verdant park, a cultivated agricultural landscape, and forests. It was built during 1640s (Per Brahe the younger). Today's exterior is from the 1860s when the castle was owned by Albrekt von Lantinghausen von Höpken. He decided to rebuild the old castle so that it would resemble a medieval Norman French castle.
The castle was almost empty since 1914. The building and the surrounding grounds were mismanaged and fell into disrepair. In 1946, the state expropriated the entire Bogesundlandet with a new law instituted for the purpose called Lex Bogesund. Today, the entire property is managed by the National Property Board (SFV), which also owns the natural reserve.
Tours in the castle: during the summer 2024 every Saturday and Sunday at 2 p.m. from 1 June to 15 September. Midsummer weekend (22 and 23 June) closed. Tickets are booked via www.billetto.se.
The island Rindö
On Rindö, the buildings for the military staff have been converted into beautiful homes for civilians, a brewery, and a cheesemaker “Ostmakeriet” during the 21st century. The cheesemaker is multi-award-winning and well worth a visit.
In Rindö harbour, you’ve the restaurant ”Syrran och jag” (The Sister and I) which has nice meals for lunch, dinners, and brunches (Sundays). During the high season, you might reserve a table. Here, you can enjoy the sunset and boats in all sizes on their way to or from Stockholm.
If you visit the island in the morning, you've a nice beach in the north-east overlooking where the boats come from the middle archipelago into "Oxdjupet" where the closest part between Rindö and Värmdö is only 180 metres.
Another military building on the island is Rindö redutt (redoubt) close to where the ferry leaves Rindö for Vaxholm. It was finished in 1864 to supplement the Vaxholm's Citadel in the defence of the waterway Kodjupet and the north bay of Vaxholm (better angle for the cannons than the Citadel). You can walk around the redoubt and look at the field of dragon’s teeth made in stone to protect it. The most eye-catching for this closed and independent defence is “Donjonen”, which is barracks set up for battle. Today, Redutten fulfills a completely different function, as it is now used as a studio for an artists' association consisting of about 20 members who also run the art gallery Kaponjären here.